Scuba diving in

Wakatobi

Wakatobi is an archipelago of around 150 islands and atolls, located off the coast of Southeast Sulawesi in the Banda Sea region, only seven of which are inhabited. Officially called Tukang Besi, meaning “ironworker”, the name Wakatobi is an acronym that combines the first two letters of the four largest islands – Wangi Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko. Together, this island chain forms the largest barrier reef system in Indonesia and boasts immense levels of biodiversity. Understandably, these were two driving factors behind the decision to designate Wakatobi as a national park in 1996 and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2012.

Aside from diving, one of the main highlights of Wakatobi is its seclusion, and low-key tourism that is only slowly gaining traction. On arrival, visitors may well feel as if they’ve discovered a lost world, having flown over emerald-coloured atolls, white sand beaches, thick forests, and seemingly endless mangroves. And, with a mix of Buton, Bajo, and Bugis peoples scattered across the islands, life in this archipelago is every bit as diverse as it is on the reef. Inhabited islands are home to fishing villages, including several beautiful Bajo sea gypsy settlements which stand on stilts high above the water. 

With its own domestic airport and bustling harbour, Wangi-Wangi acts as a gateway to the Wakatobi Archipelago. The airport receives flights twice a week, on Mondays and Fridays, from the city of Kendari in Southeast Sulawesi. Kendari itself receives flights from Jakarta or Makassar. For guests of the luxury Wakatobi Resort or Pelagian liveaboard, charter flights are offered between Bali and the resort’s private airstrip on Tomia Island. Public ferries operate between Wangi-Wangi and the other main islands of Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko, taking around two, four, or six hours respectively. 

As the primary point of entry for all visitors, and the centre of government and commerce, Wangi-Wangi is one of the more developed islands in the archipelago. Still, with the help of a motorbike or car, everything is within easy reach. Visitors will find several peaceful resorts and homestays around the coastline along with a few interesting cultural attractions to explore. Once the home of the region’s rulers, Kaledupa is an idyllic island boasting a rich cultural heritage and large areas of stunning natural scenery left virtually untouched. Tomia is the most popular island among divers, and is home to the most developed tourist infrastructure as a result, with numerous homestays and hotels to be found – including the exclusive Wakatobi Resort. The beauty of Binongko lies in its traditional charm and visitors should expect a small selection of simple accommodation.

Liveaboards are a popular way for divers to explore Wakatobi, as they provide access to all of the archipelago’s 50 or so dive sites, without the need for time-consuming ferry journeys. One or two vessels stay solely within these waters, while most combine Wakatobi with other areas such as the Banda Sea or Alor. Liveaboards that do embark or disembark here will likely do so at the harbour town of Bau Bau, on the island of Buton, with the exception of the Pelagian, which operates out of Wakatobi Resort.

Located just south of the equator, Wakatobi offers a consistent climate, with air temperatures sitting in the high 20s more or less year-round, and two distinct seasons. Easterly winds blow from June to October, bringing dry weather and stunning conditions. Plankton blooms are common around the month of August, as water temperatures hit lows of 26°C, before climbing again to highs of about 30°C by the end of October. July and August also see a slight increase in wind, which can create rougher conditions, though rarely enough to cause any problems with diving.

Westerly winds dominate between December and April, marking the region's wet season. However, Wakatobi is one of the most arid parts of Indonesia, receiving around 25% of Indonesia’s average rainfall, meaning surface conditions and visibility are rarely affected by downpours. This is typically Wakatobi’s off-season, but is also the peak period for pilot whale sightings. The transitional months of November and May often offer some of the very best conditions.

Now used to refer to the entire island chain, Wakatobi was originally the name given to the national park established in 1996. Covering an area of over a million hectares, it is the third largest national park in Indonesia. In 2012, Wakatobi became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and is now tentatively listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The park is home to atolls, as well as fringing, patch, and barrier reefs, alongside mangroves, seagrass meadows, and more. Throughout these habitats, upwards of 600 fish species and 400 types of coral are known to exist, with some reports suggesting these numbers are far higher. Several whale species have also been recorded here, namely beaked, pilot, sperm, Bryde’s, and melon-headed whales, as well as bottlenose, Risso’s, spinner, and spotted dolphins. The park also contains numerous sites known to host fish spawning aggregations, including Kapota Coral, Hoga Channel, Otiolo Coral, Table Coral City, Tomia Coral, Runduma, Kentiole, Binongko, Koko Coral, and Moromaho.