Scuba diving in

Svalbard and Jan Mayen Island

The Svalbard archipelago is a group of Norwegian islands located deep inside the Arctic Circle, several hundred miles north of the mainland. Translating to “cold coast”, Svalbard is a fitting description of this unforgiving archipelago which is covered by the world’s third largest ice sheet, with well over half of its entire landmass permanently frozen. Despite its obvious austerity, Svalbard is home to a handful of permanent residents, including the world’s northernmost settlement.

The archipelago comprises four main islands – the largest, Spitsbergen, followed by Nordaustlandet, Edgeøya, and Barentsøya. Numerous small islets complete this archipelago, including Kvitøya in the far east and Bear Island in the far south. Meaning “pointed mountains” in Dutch, Spitsbergen is a wild contrast of peaks and tundra, creating some of the most spectacular scenery on earth and providing plenty of opportunities for icy- adventures.

Jan Mayen is an active volcanic island located between Norway and Greenland, around a thousand kilometres southeast of Svalbard. Defined by the 2,277-metre tall Mt Beerenberg, this isolated island is renowned for its utterly abysmal weather, which can make landings difficult. But, should the skies clear and the sun shine, Jan Mayen’s exquisite beauty comes into full focus – with the fleeting nature of these opportunities only adding to the mystique.

Located on the east side of Spitsbergen, the settlement of Longyearbyen is the archipelago’s only town, and is the main point of entry and departure. Daily flights operate between Longyearbyen and Oslo, the capital of Norway, taking around three-hours each way. And, as Oslo has great connections to Europe and North America, the Svalbard Archipelago is actually one of the most accessible destinations in the Arctic.

It is also possible to explore Svalbard aboard Arctic expedition cruises departing from Norway, Iceland, or Scotland. But, it’s worth noting that these trips inevitably require long crossings over areas of open-ocean, such as the notoriously bumpy Barents Sea.

Visitors to Svalbard can find a small selection of hotels centred around Spitsbergen’s main settlement, Longyearbyen. That said, an Arctic expedition vessel is essential if you want to see this archipelago in all its glory. Equipped with a fleet of convenient zodiacs and able to relocate overnight, these strengthened polar vessels allow visitors to traverse this island group with relative ease, exploring the extensive coastline and stopping at landing sites wherever possible.

While certainly cold, Svalbard’s climate is less frigid than other areas of similar latitudes, thanks to the Northern Atlantic gulf stream. At the height of summer in July, average temperatures can climb to around 8°C, resulting in a brief period of ice thawing in certain areas. The summer sun shines brightly between April and August, setting for the last time in September, before rising above the horizon once again in February. During winter months, when the sun is absent, it is possible to have extended periods where temperatures drop well below -10°C, reaching lows of -20°C or more in places.

Almost all Arctic expedition cruises to Svalbard take place between the months of May to September. During this period, daylight dominates, the climate is at its most welcoming, and the sea ice recedes, making navigation and access easier. May and June are marked by thick flurries of snow, bringing a fresh coating to the islands, and polar bears have emerged with their cubs and can be seen exploring the ice. As the ice thaws in July and August, whale sightings increase and the land becomes more accessible for longer walks. Towards the end of the season, it is possible to spot ivory gull chicks, harp seals, and even female walruses with their cubs. 

Often referred to as the “wildlife capital of the Arctic”, Svalbard is crucially important for a variety of animals. Following a history of unsustainable practices such as whaling and trapping, Svalbard now has seven national parks, 21 nature reserves, and one geotope protected area. Together, these designations safeguard around 65% of the land area and 84% of territorial waters. Natural permafrost, low humidity levels, and several other factors, also helped Svalbard become home to the Global Seed Vault which protects duplicates of more than a million seed samples, originating from almost every country in the world.