Scuba diving in

Bikini Atoll

Operation Crossroads - a series of nuclear tests conducted by the USA after WWII - saw a dummy fleet of 95 military vessels gathered in Bikini Atoll and targeted with two atomic bombs, creating one of the most remarkable ship graveyards on the planet. Decades later, advanced and adventurous technical divers are able to explore this eerie underwater mausoleum. Nicknamed the ‘nuclear ghost fleet’, there are around 20 or so military wrecks accessible here, including action-ready warships, transport vessels, and submarines in the depths of the lagoon.

All of Bikini Atoll’s wrecks are world-class dives in their own right, but the scale and significance of some are sure to leave divers in awe. The USS Saratoga is widely considered to be the jewel of Bikini Atoll’s underwater treasure trove. At 270-metres long, this US aircraft carrier understandably needs several dives to explore in its entirety, with plenty to see at different depths. Planes, bombs, and military equipment, can be found amongst the wreckage, along with more mundane scenes, including the sick bay with its dentist chair still in situ.

Once the pride of the Japanese fleet, HIJMS Nagato is another highlight of diving in Bikini Atoll. Having survived Hiroshima, this impressive battleship was eventually brought down by the second test blast of Operation Crossroads. The 125-metre vessel now rests upside down at a depth of around 50-metres, though the bow’s imposing 16-inch guns are still visible. Other noteworthy vessels include the USS Arkansas, USS Lamson, USS Anderson, USS Gilliam, USS Carlisle, USS Apogon, USS Pilotfish, and the IJN Sakawa.

Other diving in Bikini Atoll

Having bore witness to over a decade of unprecedented violence, the beauty and biodiversity of Bikini Atoll is again a sight to behold. In fact, research suggests that the region’s reefs began to regenerate just 10 years after the first nuclear blasts, while the lasting levels of radiation resulted in little human interference, allowing marine life to flourish once more. Surprisingly, these waters now play host to clouds of reef fish cruising above a carpet of sea whips and soft corals, providing plenty of prey for larger species such as tuna, snapper, barracuda, and trevally. 

In 2011, the surrounding Marshall Islands became the largest shark sanctuary in the world, and the results are obvious. Whitetips, blacktips, silvertips, and grey reef sharks make regular appearances, along with the chance of silkies, lemon sharks, oceanic whitetips, hammerheads, and tiger sharks. A site situated in the atoll’s southwest corner, appropriately named Shark Pass, is not to be missed if time and conditions allow. But, while their presence is always appreciated, Bikini Atoll’s shark diving bonafides are often overlooked, as divers who make the epic journey to get here are typically drawn by an entirely different attraction.

Diving Kwajalein Atoll 

At the end of WWII, American forces took the decision to dump superfluous equipment and gear into the ocean, rather than transport it back to the US. This is particularly evident in Kwajalein Atoll, near the island of Roi, as around 150 planes were pushed off the back of barges and into the lagoon. Today, divers can find Corsairs, Wildcats, Helldivers, Avengers, Dauntlesses, and PBJ Mitchells strewn across the sand, many sitting perfectly upright. These planes make for an interesting underwater spectacle, with the possibility of seeing more than a dozen on a single dive.

Located in the south of the atoll, Ebeye Island marks the resting place of Prinz Eugene – a German heavy cruiser that is often used as the first dive during trips to Bikini Atoll. Having survived Operation Crossroads, this 208-metre vessel was taken to Kwajalein Atoll where it later capsized and sank. Remaining partially visible above the surface, this vessel offers plenty to see within recreational depths, making it perfect for a check dive.

All images courtesy of Pacific Master Liveaboard / Simon Lorenz.